I HAVE SEVERAL ACRES I WOULD LIKE TO PLANT WITH LARGE TREES. HOW SHOULD I START PLANTING TO ACHIEVE FAST RESULTS WITHOUT SPENDING A FORTUNE?

Many people want to create small woodlands or simply make their land more attractive but don't want to wait too long for results. In the past the reasons for planting woods were often different from today's reasons - for instance planting to produce valuable timber or cover for game. These days the reasons are more likely to be aesthetic as there is a general understanding that huge areas of woodland have been lost and the countryside looks poorer as a result. Landowners may also be inspired by the valuable habitats which woodlands can provide or the future use of managed woodlands as sources of biofuel.

The first place to start when considering planting a woodland is to try to ensure that the trees planted suit your environment. For residents of the UK it is straightforward to discover what is native to your area by entering the first three digits of your postcode into the appropriate part of the website www.nhm.ac.uk/nature-online/life/plants-fungi/postcode-plants which is a national database provided by the Natural History Museum. This excellent resource will tell you all the native plants, not just the trees, for your local area. You should then look at any particular problems which your land may provide for a growing tree. These would principally be problems of drainage, soil type and exposure. All three of these could vary within a very small area so that very damp or dry patches, extremely windy areas or local soil problems might produce situations which may not be obvious from the database. The soil for instance may have been compacted by building machinery or polluted by previous use. If any of these problems seem likely than a site visit from an expert may be necessary and soil samples may need to be taken and analysed. However if your site is fairly typical of your neighbourhood the database will give you a good idea of where to start in choosing trees (or for that matter hedges and smaller plants).

There are several varieties of trees known for the speed with which they grow. Poplars, Willows and Eucalyptus are amongst the commonest. Indeed Poplars are the fastest growing source of hardwood in the UK. These varieties may not give you the end result which you need especially if you have a vision of stately trees with large spreading crowns lasting through the centuries. If you imagine your land covered in large Oaks, Beeches, Ashes and the like you will need to take a longer term view. Planting a fast growing species to give an early effect, with these larger species growing more slowly next to them, one day to take over from them and shade them out, may be your best approach. Willow, Alder, Poplar, Sorbus (such as Rowans) and Birch will give you the fast growing "nursery crop" amongst which the giant trees of the future can develop. Willows and some Poplars can sometimes be grown successfully simply by sticking suitable branches straight into damp ground, though they will need protection from rabbits and deer.

Buying and planting these larger trees is not entirely straightforward as there are several options. Mature trees, up to 9m (30ft) tall, can be bought, transported and planted by experts but this is a pricey business. You will be spending thousands per tree and access for large machines will be necessary. Trees smaller than this can also be bought and planted in a similar way but sometimes they can also be dug up and moved using tree spades where suitable specimens are available locally. Moving trees can work out far cheaper than buying new, purpose grown specimens.

At the other end of the spectrum trees can easily and cheaply be bought as bare-rooted plants. As the name suggests these are smaller trees, usually up to around 3m (10ft) high, which have been dug up during late autumn and winter when their leaves have fallen off and they are dormant, and are sold with no soil attached to their roots. They can be a very cheap way to buy trees and they usually establish well but, despite the fact that they come into leaf in the following spring and appear healthyl, they may sit still in your soil for several years without making much growth. They are building up their reserves and growing roots during this time. It may be very frustrating to wait for them to start back into serious growth after several years.

More expensive, though often very reasonably priced, are rootballed trees. These are grown in open ground and are prepared for movement in advance of digging them up. When they are lifted their roots are surrounded by some of the soil which they have grown in and are then wrapped in hessian. They are transported like this and the tree, complete with rootball and hessian bag, is planted into the new ground. Over time the bag rots and the trees strart back into growth with less of the disturbance which bare-rooted trees have suffered. They generally establish and grow more effectively than bare-rooted specimens.

The final option is to plant more expensive trees grown in containers. The art of growing trees in pots and bags has advanced greatly in recent years as our understanding of the needs of trees, and especially their roots, has moved on. Container-grown trees up to a considerable size can now be bought though it becomes difficult, and a little dangerous, to plant by hand trees in containers larger than around 70-90litres. Back injuries can easily result. Plants larger than these sizes need to be moved and planted by machine. Having spent more on these container-grown plants, whose chances of survival and speed of growth are likely to be greater, it is well worth getting professionals to plant them and look after them. If however you wish to plant them yourself you can usually buy container grown trees around 3-4m high for around £75-£100. They can be delivered to you and can sit happily in their pots for a time, as long as you look after their needs for water and support, whilst you wait for a suitable time to plant them.

With all of these trees aftercare and planting will matter even more than choosing the right varieties. A dry period in the years before a tree has settled in can kill off any tree and poor planting can produce all sorts of problems.

CONTRACTORS HAVE RECENTLY DAMAGED A MATURE TREE IN MY GARDEN. IS IT POSSIBLE TO REPLACE IT?

22. CONTRACTORS HAVE RECENTLY DAMAGED A MATURE TREE IN MY GARDEN. IS IT POSSIBLE TO REPLACE IT?



It is unfortunately a fairly common experience for builders and contractors to work too close to mature trees and not to understand how much damage can be done. A mature tree may have developed a very wide spread of roots and the tree will be feeding using the small roots at the edge of this spread. Damage to a large part of these can result in severe damage and die-back. Damage to bark, or as a result of piling soil against the trunk ( something which is dangerous for almost any variety of tree) can result in death or an ailing tree. It is not uncommon however for the contractors to have a legal duty to replace damaged mature trees and this at least can provide a reasonable budget to take on the work. Of course if the contractor's appear to have deliberately endangered a tree in order to facilitate their works the local authority may become involved and there may be a more serious legal outcome.

What is then possible as a replacement for a mature tree? Trees up to 10m, 30ft, high can be moved and planted but this of course is not a small undertaking. Often these trees will have been grown far away from your garden and will have to be moved a large distance by special transport. Access to the garden for large machinery will be necessary to bring the tree in, to excavate the planting pit and to remove the soil. The ground will have to be free of underground services and will need to be suitable for the chosen species. Water tables and drainage will need to be suitable. Between the largest trees which can be planted and the small ones available from a garden centre is a range of trees of intermediate size and price. In addition it is sometimes easier and cheaper to move a semi mature tree from a location closer at hand as an alternative to buying a new tree. Tree spades mounted on the back of trucks are able to dig, remove and replant surprisingly large specimens.

Finally, and vitally, it is important to have a professional to keep an eye on a newly planted tree and to advise on aftercare. It would be very frustrating to plant something so impressive and expensive only to have it die soon after.

CAN I PLANT A MATURE TREE IN MY GARDEN AND, IF SO, WHAT IS THE LARGEST POSSIBLE?

In theory it is possible to plant large trees up to the size of fully grown, mature trees but in practice there are many restraints on what can be done. Nurseries in Britain and Europe grow enormous trees, up to 9m (30ft) high and with trunks 60cm (2ft) in circumference. In addition it is sometimes possible to move fairly mature trees using tree spades but often the trees will need preparing well in advance of the move. Moving any of these into a garden and planting them is a skilled and exceptional activity.

Access to most gardens is a problem. Heavy equipment is needed to move and plant mature trees and to remove the spoil which large rootballs produce. In addition the ground must be free of underground services and the water table must be suitable for the particular variety of tree. As the tree would have a large canopy vulnerable to movement by strong winds it would need specialist guying either by cables or by ground anchors.

The price of planting a mature tree is, of course, likely to be large both because of the long period of care needed to raise it and because of the expense of moving and planting it. In addition skilled aftercare is needed to ensure that the signs of distress in a tree are noticed before a situation becomes critical and the tree dies. Despite that it is a fairly cheap and straightforward job to plant trees up to around 4-6metres (13-20ft) high which are grown in large containers. These are grown in very large numbers by nurseries and can often be moved and planted by a couple of strong and skilled people. Of course they will also need proper aftercare to maximise their chances of survival.

IS IT A RISK TO USE LEYLAND CYPRESS FOR HEDGING ?

There is always a lot of fuss about Leyland Cypress hedges. They have a reputation for being uncontrollable, for creating disputes between neighbours, for being ugly and, recently, for being disease prone. There are elements of truth in all these accusations but, set against these, it is quite possible to create beautiful Leyland hedges which are excellent screens.
The Leyland Cypress ( Cupressocyparis Leylandii is its Latin name) is a cross between two other species of conifer and is a classic example of hybrid vigour. It is a very fast growing plant, indeed the fastest evergreen with the exception of some Eucalyptus species. Even in poor conditions, such as thin chalky conditions and exposure to coastal winds, it is capable of decent growth. It can even tolerate a certain amount of shade. These benefits however can result in several problems. The roots of such vigorous plants can remove much of the moisture and many of the nutrients from the surrounding soil (on your own side of a hedge as well as your neighbour's) and so it can be difficult to grow anything near to a Leyland hedge. The primary problem however results from the vigour of its growth. A healthy Leyland Cypress can make several feet of growth a year. To contain it as a hedge needs ideally three sessions of trimming a year, in late spring, summer and early autumn. This is partly because it grows so fast but also because it will not grow again from the older, brown wood. Only the fresh green growth can be clipped effectively and this is at the end of all the branches. It is however possible to maintain a decent, though not perfect, hedge by twice yearly clipping. Anything less and gaps will start to appear at the bottom of the plants which will then look less attractive and stop working so well as a hedge.
Leylands have also frequently been used as screening. They are easily capable of forming a dense line of trees 15metres (50ft) high in reasonable conditions of soil and exposure. As with hedges, this can cause difficulties with neighbours and local authorities who may resent their overbearing effects and the loss of light and view which results. There have been many disputes between neighbours in the UK, several resuting in expensive law suits. The result has been legislation so that it is now possible for Councils to require any evergreen boundary hedge or screen to be reduced to 2m high.
Disease of Leyland Cypress have become increasingly common recently. Large brown areas in closely clipped hedges are an increasingly familiar site. In Britain the Royal Horticultural Society has carried out research into the problem (http://www.rhs.org.uk/Learning/Research/Projects/cypressdieback.htm) and in addition several bodies in the US have reported widespread occurance of Canker diseases. It is worth remembering that there are several alternatives to Leylands which, though less vigorous, make very good substitutes. Western Red Cedar (Thuja plicata), Lawson Cypress (Chamaecyparis lawsoniana) and Yew (Taxus baccata) may substitute well depending on the situation. In addition there are many non-coniferous evergreen hedges such as Laurel (Prunus laurocerasus) which thrive in similar conditions to Leylands.
To answer the original question, if I were to need a dense, evergreen hedge for my own garden I would choose one of the alternatives which are a little less vigorous or subject to disease. Having said that it is often possible to buy Leylands very cheaply.